A weekend in Paris with little ones is a balancing act: enough Paris to feel like Paris, and enough breaks to keep everyone happy. We did croissants in the park, a climb up to Montmartre with a toddler on my hip and two very good steak tartares.
Here’s where we stayed, what we did and the two restaurants I’d book again tomorrow.
Where We Stayed
We stayed at Hôtel Les Jardins du Luxembourg on the Left Bank, right by the Luxembourg Gardens. It was the perfect base. Most mornings started with a stroll in the gardens, followed by a wander past the bookshops of the Latin Quarter. Here’s my full review of the hotel.
What to Do
Galeries Lafayette Rooftop
For one of the best views over Paris, go up to the Galeries Lafayette rooftop. It’s completely free, and you can see right across the city to the Eiffel Tower.
Montmartre
We climbed the many, many steps up to Montmartre, which is a serious workout when you’re carrying a toddler. It’s worth it. The cobbled lanes are full of little galleries and cafés, and you can watch the artists at work in Place du Tertre.
Where to Eat
Brasserie des Prés
Brasserie des Prés in Saint-Germain-des-Prés is the classic Parisian brasserie you picture: art deco interiors, warm lighting and the buzz of conversation and clinking glasses.
I had the steak tartare, which was tender and perfectly seasoned. My husband had the steak-frites, cooked medium-rare with golden, crispy fries. Don’t skip the crème brûlée, with its caramelised top cracking under the spoon.
Restaurant Georgette
For something smaller, Restaurant Georgette is a lovely neighbourhood bistro off the tourist track. It’s intimate, the food is delicious, and yes, I ordered the steak tartare again. It came with beautifully crispy, chunky fries.
Lena’s Tips
- Stay on the Left Bank. The Luxembourg Gardens are perfect for kids, and the area is calmer than the centre.
- Go up the Galeries Lafayette rooftop. It’s free, and the view is as good as many paid ones.
- Bring a carrier for Montmartre. A pram and all those steps don’t mix.
- Book dinner early. An early sitting suits kids and makes it easier to get a table.
The Verdict
Paris with kids is completely doable, and still very much Paris. Base yourself by the Luxembourg Gardens, climb Montmartre, and book Brasserie des Prés for the dinner that makes it feel like a proper trip.
Staying longer in France? Read my Disneyland Paris with kids guide and my French Riviera guide.
“Paris with a toddler is less about the sights and more about the croissants in the park. Both are worth it.” – Lena
