Positano looks exactly like the postcards, which almost never happens. Pastel houses stacked up the cliffs, boats bobbing in the bay, lemons everywhere. We arrived by boat from Ischia, and I fell for it before we’d even stepped off.
Here’s how to spend a few days there: the hike that’s worth the sore legs, the beach clubs to book and where to eat at night.
Arriving in Positano
Come by boat if you can. The cliffs rise straight out of the turquoise water, and the whole town reveals itself as you pull in. It’s one of the most beautiful arrivals I can think of.
Be ready for stairs. Positano is built vertically, with narrow lanes winding up the hillside and a new view at every turn. Comfortable shoes are non-negotiable.
Hiking the Path of the Gods
The Sentiero degli Dei, or Path of the Gods, is an 8km trail through the hills above the Amalfi Coast. You’ll pass lemon groves and old shepherds’ paths, with the sea glittering far below the whole way.
It’s challenging, so wear proper shoes and bring plenty of water. The reward at the top is a huge view and the cutest little lemonade stand.
Positano’s Best Beach Clubs
Arienzo Beach Club
Arienzo Beach Club is only reachable by boat, which makes it feel like a private cove. The seafood is wonderfully fresh and the sunbeds are just steps from the water. We loved it so much we went back twice. Arrive early for a spot right by the sea.
Villa Treville
Villa Treville on Laurito Beach is quieter and more exclusive, with a smart, calm crowd. It’s the one for a long, peaceful lunch and a cocktail with a view.
Where to Eat and Drink
Franco’s Bar
Start your evening at Franco’s Bar, above Le Sirenuse. It has one of the best views in Positano, a chic, relaxed crowd and beautifully made cocktails. It’s the perfect aperitivo spot.
La Sponda at Le Sirenuse
For a special dinner, book La Sponda. The room is lit by hundreds of candles, the seafood is simply grilled and the pasta is delicate. The wine list is built around the Amalfi Coast. It’s the most romantic dining room in town.
Terrazza Celè
Terrazza Celè was another favourite: a candlelit terrace covered in greenery, looking straight out over the bay. The food is elegant but comforting, and it’s on my list of favourite restaurants with a view.
Lena’s Tips
- Go in May, June, September or October. July and August are hot and very busy.
- Book everything ahead. The best restaurants and beach clubs fill up fast.
- Arrive by boat. It’s the most beautiful way in, and the ferries from Ischia and the other coastal towns are easy.
- Pack proper shoes. You’ll walk up and down a lot of stairs, and you’ll need them for the Path of the Gods.
The Verdict
Positano is as beautiful as everyone says. Do the hike, book a day at Arienzo, have a drink at Franco’s and save one night for La Sponda. You’ll leave already planning a way back.
More from Italy: read my Ischia guide, Alassio guide and Rome post.
“Positano is the rare place that’s even better than the photos. Arrive by boat if you can.” – Lena
