Ischia is the volcanic island across the bay from Capri, with the same blue water, thermal spas and lush green hills, but far fewer crowds. If Capri feels too busy, this is where to go.
Getting There
We took the ferry from Naples. The crossing was fine, but finding the right ferry in Naples was a nightmare, and we missed our prepaid one and had to buy new tickets for the next. Learn from us: give yourself plenty of time at the Naples ferry terminal.
We arrived at Porto d’Ischia, a pretty harbour lined with colourful buildings, little shops and cafés. It’s a lovely first sight.
Where We Stayed
At the top of a very steep hill we found Hotel Le Querce, a four-star hotel close to the port with a large pool, a bar and a restaurant. The views over the hills and the Tyrrhenian Sea were extraordinary, and we were upgraded to a great room with a big balcony.
If you fancy a sea swim, winding steps lead down to the hotel’s jetty.
Where to Eat
We wanted to explore, so we skipped dinner at the hotel and found Il Giardino nearby. It has the most beautiful garden setting, and we had antipasti, pizza and delicious wine. We rolled out.
Lena’s Tips
- Allow extra time in Naples. The ferry terminal is chaotic.
- Stay up the hill for the view. Just be ready for the climb.
- Try the thermal spas. They’re what Ischia is famous for.
- Combine it with Positano. Boats run between the islands and the Amalfi Coast.
The Verdict
Ischia is a relaxed, beautiful and less commercial alternative to Capri, with hot springs, gorgeous views and great food. We can’t wait to go back and explore more of the island.
More from Italy: read my Positano guide and Alassio guide.
“Ischia is Capri without the crowds. Just leave plenty of time for the Naples ferry.” – Lena
