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Scandinavia

Stockholm Travel Guide: Where to Stay, Eat and Shop

Perched on a series of islands connected by bridges and ferries, Stockholm is a city that effortlessly blends tradition with modernity.

Stockholm waterfront seen from a ferry flying the Swedish flag

Stockholm is spread across 14 islands linked by more than 50 bridges, so you’re never far from the water. It’s elegant, calm and beautifully designed, with Gamla Stan’s medieval lanes on one side and sleek modern districts on the other.

I grew up in Sweden, so this is a local’s list of what to do, where to eat and where to stay.

What to Do

Östermalm Saluhall

Östermalm Saluhall is a must. It’s a historic food hall with beautiful wooden interiors and stalls selling everything from fresh seafood and cheese to Swedish classics like gravlax and smörgåstårta, the famous sandwich cake.

Östermalm saluhall in Stockholm, Sweden

Shop at NK

NK (Nordiska Kompaniet) has been Stockholm’s most iconic department store since 1915. It’s several floors of fashion, design, homewares and a very good food hall.

Nordiska Kompaniet, NK, in Stockholm, Sweden

Follow the Water

With water everywhere, some of the best moments are simply walking the waterfront. There are lovely bars and restaurants along the quays for a drink or a bite in the sun.

Stockholm, Sweden
The af Chapman ship moored at Skeppsholmen, Stockholm
Waterfront boardwalk in Stockholm on a sunny day

Take a Boat to the Archipelago

Don’t leave without a trip into the archipelago. Fjäderholmarna is one of the closest islands, about 30 minutes by boat. It has walking paths, little shops and seafood restaurants, and it’s perfect for a family day out. Our kids loved climbing the giant anchor.

Child climbing a giant anchor on Fjäderholmarna in the Stockholm archipelago

We had lunch at Fjäderholmarnas Krog, a gorgeous restaurant right by the water.

Lunch on the terrace at Fjäderholmarnas Krog in the Stockholm archipelago

Where to Eat

In my opinion, Stockholm has the best restaurant scene in the world. That’s a big claim, so I’ve written a whole Stockholm restaurant guide to back it up.

Where to Stay

My pick is Bank Hotel, in a grand former bank building right in the centre. It has a great restaurant, a cool bar in what used to be the bank manager’s office and a rooftop bar with views over the city. Here’s my full Bank Hotel review.

Lunch at a glass-fronted terrace restaurant in Stockholm
Drinks in a grand Stockholm dining room with a chequered floor

Lena’s Tips

  • Go in summer. The long, light evenings are magical, and it’s the best time for the archipelago.
  • Get on a boat. Even a short ferry ride shows you the city from its best side.
  • Eat at Östermalm Saluhall. It’s perfect for a relaxed lunch with kids.
  • Add Copenhagen. The two cities make a brilliant Scandinavian double. Here’s my Copenhagen guide.

The Verdict

Stockholm is a city on the water, with brilliant food and a very civilised pace. Shop at NK, eat at Saluhall, take the boat to Fjäderholmarna and stay at Bank Hotel.

“Stockholm in summer is hard to beat. Whatever you do, get on a boat.” – Lena

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